We love 10 weights, they’re such a unique size. 8 and 9 weights are a class. 11 and 12 weights are a class. Then there’s the 10 in between, in a class of its own.

We use 10’s in both difficult conditions for bonefish and permit, and friendly conditions for tarpon and pelagics. If your guide says bring a 10 weight for jacks, you’re going to have a good time. In fact, if you have a 10 weight in your hand you’re having a good time no matter what.

As far as reels go, we have four conditions: balance, backing capacity, drag functionality and durability.

Accuracy is often important with a 10 weight and a balanced outfit optimizes accuracy by providing good feel of the rod as it loads. While striving for balance, error on the side of heavy as it allows you to feel the rod tip better than with a reel that’s too light.

For what we use a 10 weight for, backing capacity is important. We look for the ability to have at least 200 yards of #30 dacron. If you’re using a 10 weight more for the flies than for the fish (ex: musky fishing), then backing capacity is less important.

With a 10 weight, as with all reels, the drag must have close to zero start up inertia, to protect tippet. With a 10 weight the drag must also be able to dissipate heat well and endure many blistering runs.
Finally a 10 weight has to be structurally sound and have a great chin. Meaning low tolerances, no wobble, parts that move should move and parts that don’t shouldn’t. The reel should also be able to take a harsh beating from the enviroment, and a reasonable beating from humans (dropping it, boat rash, etc).

If those four conditions are met, the rest comes down to your personal preference! Color, manufacturer, porting style, sealed or cork, that’s all up you and whatever floats your boat! The fish don’t care, but if you have confidence you will fish better!